When the late, great Anthony Bourdain called Woollahra’s Victor Churchill “the most beautiful butcher shop in the world”, you know it’s an opinion you can take to the bank. But why should Sydney have all the fun?
Melbourne already has incredible purveyors of meaty treats, but there’s something to be said for a butcher that not only touts concierge-like service, a millionaire’s fit-out and some of the most insane produce going. it even has its own 12-seater bar and grill that rivals actual restaurants.
Australian meat royalty Anthony and Rebecca Puharich’s newest project occupies a heritage building in the bougie locale of High Street, Armadale. It’s all quite fitting for the latest jewel in their empire’s crown. The horseshoe-shaped, marble-topped bar is the ideal spot for a long lunch or quick glass of Champagne and some charcuterie, but if you can snag yourself a booking, the former is a rather delightful way to spend your afternoon.
Start with a tiny bite in the form of an escargot-filled vol-au-vent (yes, they’re back), before moving on to slivers of sweet, meltingly luxurious jamón Ibérico. From there, the world’s your oyster – or should that be Miyazaki 12-score A5 wagyu sirloin. Richer than Zuckerberg, this heavily marbled beauty is rendered over charcoal till medium, then served simply with a soy dressing that cuts through the richness with savoury aplomb and highlights the extreme quality of the produce at hand.
There’s surf – live lobster, caviar, freshly shucked oysters – to go with your turf, but why are you really here, if you aren’t in for a land-based gem? The bar and grill menu is a hit parade of classics, beautifully executed in the open kitchen, which only adds to the intimacy and expertise of this stunning new venue.
It’s the mic drop Melbourne didn’t know it needed. Raised steaks, indeed.
Victor Churchill Melbourne, 953 High St, Armadale, Vic.